Friday, August 21, 2015

Natural Beauty of Pakistan vs. Switzerland

Switzerland is famous all over the world for its natural beauty along with Swiss Banks, Swiss Watches and Swiss Knives. Pakistan is not less beautiful than Switzerland in terms of natural beauty and picturesque valleys. Here are some pictorial glimpses showing a comparative analysis of Pakistan vs Switzerland.

1. Satpara Lake, Skardu

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2. Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan


 3. Azad Kashmir, The Heaven on Earth

4. Banjosa Lake, Azad Kashmir

 5. Deosai Plains, Skardu

6. Ibex, the National Animal of Pakistan

 7. Saif-ul-Mulk Lake, Kaghan Valley
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 8. The beautiful colors of Hunza
 9. Muzaffarabad, A Mini Paradise
M Bukhari/ Flickr
 10. Sharda Village, Muzaffarabad
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 11. Shangrila Resorts, Kachura Lake in Skardu
 12. Terrifying Bridge in Passu Gojal, Gilgit Baltistan
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 13. Naltar Lake
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 14. The killer mountain of Pakistan, Nanga Parbat
 15. Winter in Pakistan
 16. Night view of Pakistan in winter season
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 17. Summer blossoming in Fairy Meadows

Sunday, August 16, 2015

Fairy Meadows and Nanga Parbat: Where the Legends of Killer Mountain Live

Fairy Meadows is the bouquet of alpine flowers set before the towering translucent tomb of Killer Mountain, called Nanga Parbat in Sanskrit.  The mountain provides the views that make Fairy Meadows such an alluring destination, but Fairy Meadows are where the legends of Nanga Parbat are kept alive, told by generations of villagers who witnessed the legions of climbers that never descended its icy walls.

Its welcoming rug on its northern face is the Raikot glacier, strewn with dark echoing crevasses, plagued by constant avalanches, and guarded with 15 meter ice spears exuding the ancient silent character of terracotta warriors.  Over one in five people who attempt to climb Nanga Parbat never descend.  Even the famous Reinhold Messner, who was the first to climb all the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) had to be nursed back to life after losing his brother and seven toes on the mountain.

Nanga Parbat is the ninth tallest mountain in the world, standing at 8,125 meters (26,657 feet), and the second tallest mountain in Pakistan only after K2.  It is also the first mountain in the great Himalaya range, which then stretches 2,400 kilometers to the East through six nations, ending in Tibet.  It is as if the Himalaya understood first impressions, and stuck a foreboding foot forward.

The men of the mountains have long black beards wear topi hats, long kurtas, smell of tobacco and bonfires, and have long deep gazes from tracking distant storms.  The women are seldom seen, mostly on a distant ridge in their bright flowing sashes, tending a field or herding goats with long shaggy hair, twisted horns and the golden enchanted eyes of the Greek god Pan.

The meadows change with the seasons.  The birch trees streak the mountains school bus yellow in autumn, while winter is bare, bone white and still.  Spring brings the river’s roar, the crisp cracks of avalanches, brave purple, yellow and white wildflowers, and little brick red buds on the end of the white birch branches emerge like candle flames.  Babbly brooks jog through the meadows, which sparkle with pyrite and quartz, but the snow remains high on the mountain faces, and the winter winds still visit on occasion, howling through the log cabins at night.

However, the stark beauty of spring is said to sweeten in the summer and the best time to visit is from mid-July to the end of August.  The heat of the valley becomes unbearable, and landslides are common and deadly, so the village of Tato loads all their important possessions on donkeys, and trek up to the Fairy Meadows where their summer village rests.

The houses are built of pine logs and recessed into the mountains like hobbit holes, w

ith flattened birch bark as roofs, covered in dirt which sprout meadows themselves, camouflaging them into the alpine atmosphere.  The men play polo, cut firewood with echoing thuds of their axe, and sip tea.   The women pick wild mulberries, raspberries, and strawberries in the meadows and tend vegetable gardens.  At night Nanga Parbat glows white in the darkness, and men lounge on Pakistani rugs around small wood-fired iron stoves relaying the stories of Killer Mountain.

The mountain trails and creaky little log bridges across the rivers are now mostly just used by villagers.  A devastating Taliban attack on climbers in 2013, was erroneously reported to have occurred in Fairy Meadows (it actually occurred quite far away) and has scared most visitors from the region.  However, the Government has taken the incident quite seriously, and now armed guards accompany hikers, on the array of trekking options, including to Nanga Parbat Base Camp in the summer.  The experience feels very safe, and travelers should worry more about the steep cliffs and the biting cold at night than terrorism, and take advantage of the pristine experience one can have in this seldom visited mountain gem.

Those interested in the trip should contact Ghulam Nabi, who runs Raikot Serai Lodge, can make all arrangements, and showed me a great time.

Friday, August 14, 2015

Hunza: Pakistan’s Valley of Bliss

Snowfall in Hunza Valley
Pakistan’s ‘real Shangri-La’ is a world free from militancy, poverty, gender inequality, pollution and a lacklustre education system.

Visitors to the stunningly beautiful valley, towered over by five snowcapped mountains, sometimes feel as if they are standing at the edge of the Earth – or, maybe, at the centre of it.

Either way, they often don’t feel as if they are in Pakistan, a country that struggles with poverty, pollution, militancy and a lacklustre education system, especially for women.

Once a hardscrabble Himalayan town where residents barely had enough to eat, Karimabad, in the Hunza Valley, is now one of Pakistan’s most idyllic spots – an oasis of tolerance, security, gender equality and good schools. That standard of living can be traced to residents’ moderate interpretation of Islam, the mighty Karakorum Highway (KKH) as well as considerable support from one of the world’s largest charities-The Aga Khan Development Network (AKDN).

Youth of Hunza Valley are instrumental in solving their own issues by their own initiatives. HGISF Pakistan is one of the leading youth-led and youth-centric Civil Society Organization working for youth-centric community development.  

Many parents in the valley say that if they had to choose, they would send their daughters to school over their sons. Nearly all families own at least a small plot of land. Residents say they cannot remember the last murder in the valley. As such police Stations are devoid of prisnoers. Civic sense of community is at its best in Hunza Valley as the locals have strong sense of ownership of their cultural heritage, civic amenities, public parks, government building and communal assets. Therefore, unlike other parts of Pakistan, public buildings, social centers, roads and  civic amenities are not in a shamble condition with filth and peeks of pan. Similarly, you will not find a single beggar in whole Hunza valley and streams are not polluted with plastic bags, human waste and decaying appliances.

Such views – and protection of the surroundings – have allowed the Hunza Valley’s population to become a bulwark against Islamist extremism, despite its relative proximity to militant strongholds in Pakistan’s tribal belt and Kashmir, a disputed region that Pakistan and India have fought wars over. “Here, we have facilities, we study and there is no terrorism,” said Haider Ali, 18, watching classmates play soccer as the sun set behind Mount Rakaposhi, elevation 25,551ft.

Not everything is perfect, of course. Electricity deficits can keep the lights out for days at a time. A once-vibrant tourism industry collapsed after the terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center. Deforestation has led to a shortage of firewood, so families must huddle in one room to stay warm when winter temperatures plunge toward zero.

And some local leaders worry the community has become too dependent on charitable groups, leaving it vulnerable to a sudden reduction in aid. Such concerns are growing more pronounced as the Pakistani government, which temporarily expelled Save the Children last month, implements strict new licensing requirements for international aid groups.

But for now, Karimabad is an example of what’s possible in rural Pakistan when residents accept support from international charities and stand firm against the threats posed by militancy.
The author enjoying his summer vocations in Karimabad Hunza. 

“This is the real Shangri-La,” Lars-Gunnar Wigemark, the former EU ambassador to Pakistan, said after seeing the Hunza Valley for the first time last year.

More than 90 per cent of the residents of Karimabad are followers of the Prince Karim Aga Khan, a billionaire philanthropist who lives in France and goes by the title of Aga Khan IV, is their spiritual leader – and a major benefactor of the Hunza Valley.

Prince Karim’s Aga Khan Development Network has an annual budget of $600m and operates in more than 30 countries. Over the past four decades, it has worked with other charities to invest hundreds of millions in the valley, paving roads, opening schools and establishing health clinics and water treatment centres for the 65,000 residents. During the 1980s, in a bid to expand the local economy, the Aga Khan network helped persuade farmers to grow cherries and peaches along with the traditional cash crops of wheat and potatoes. Now, much of Karimabad is an orchard.

Prince Karim Aga Khan is also a proponent of education. According to the The Annual Status of Education Report (ASER) of Idare-e-Taleem-o-Aagahi (ITA) and Alif Ailaan Pakistan District Education Rankings 2014 , the Hunza Valley’s enrollment rate is 100 percent and literacy rate is 96%. The national literacy rate is about 58 per cent, with a sharp disparity between men and women.
Shahzad Roy-the renowned Singer from Mainland Pakistan is interacting with school children of Hunza Valley. An educational song of Shahzad Roy-Chal Pada- have rightly covered educational attainments of Hunza Valley.

A World Bank study published last year concluded that female literacy in parts of the Hunza Valley had reached 90 per cent, compared with 5 per cent in another mountainous district, Diamer, about five hours away by road.

“When I was in school, few could even speak English,” said Javed Ali, 41, manager of Karimabad’s Hill Top Hotel.

“Now, everyone speaks it fluently.” From settlements at an elevation as high as 9,000ft, children walk up to three miles into the valley to get to school each morning.

After middle school, some female students enroll in the Aga Khan Higher Secondary School for Girls, which teaches only maths and science. Nearly all graduates go on to college, according to Zahra Alidad, the principal and a graduate of the school.

Aga Khan Higher Secondary School (AKHSS)
Iqbal Walji, president of the Aga Khan Council for Pakistan, said the Hunza Valley had been sheltered from the extremist ideology that has taken root in other parts of the country.

“When you have communities improving their own lives and obtaining education, it prevents easy manipulation of communities and allows them to be resilient against external forces,” Walji said.

Some local leaders complain that residents have become too passive and reliant on the Aga Khan charities. “All decisions are centralised and made in France, and people are just waiting for others to solve their problems,” said Izhar Ali Hunzia, a local leader.

But Ali Murad, 66, said he is grateful for financial support that helped free his and other families from the isolating grip of mountain life. When Murad was a child, his family struggled to make money and ate mostly food made from wheat. Now he owns eight cherry trees, 35 apple trees and 40 apricot trees. Two of his three sons have graduated from college. One works as a chef in Dubai and the other as a Chinese interpreter.
Karimabad Hunza during Autumn. 

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